Weed control

[riltim]

We have a few holes on our course that are hell to maintain in the summer due to stinging nettles and various other junk weeds taking over the fairways. They're in a portion of the park that is wooded but with a poor canopy so the parks department can't get back there to mow weekly.

I can accept the fact that we will have to mow and weedwacks this area regularly but is there anything we can do to prevent some of the weeds from coming back up so thick? I know I can spray the hell out of it with high concentrate roundup but I'd like that to be my last resort.

Looking to come up with a plan of action now so we can be proactive in the spring before things get out of hand.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

burning is one of the few ways to restore natural growth. maybe contact the local fire dept for a controlled training drill. mulching the hell out of everything helps but can spread seed if done at the wrong time. Just need to suffocate the unnatural growth.

 

[Consult20]

We have a few holes on our course that are hell to maintain in the summer due to stinging nettles and various other junk weeds taking over the fairways. They're in a portion of the park that is wooded but with a poor canopy so the parks department can't get back there to mow weekly.

I can accept the fact that we will have to mow and weedwacks this area regularly but is there anything we can do to prevent some of the weeds from coming back up so thick? I know I can spray the hell out of it with high concentrate roundup but I'd like that to be my last resort.

Looking to come up with a plan of action now so we can be proactive in the spring before things get out of hand.

I would not recommend using roundup, it is a vegetation killer, it kills everything. After that, only the weeds grow back making the situation worse. If you need to spray, find something that only kills the weeds like 2-4-D (if that's still available). A farm supply store would be a good source of info and products.

 

[PWaggoner]

You can definitely smother it with chats and leaves + pulling.

 

[jcf5083]

Looking at the title, I thought this thread was going in a different direction.

 

[Consult20]

Looking at the title, I thought this thread was going in a different direction.

Same here, glad it wasn't the other because that's a lost cause -- at least at my local course.

 

[FancyRed]

Looking at the title, I thought this thread was going in a different direction.

+1:|:|

 

[riltim]

Controlled burn sounds interesting. I can mention it to the the parks dept and see what they think, doubt they would go for it though given the potential to get out of hand.

I will also try to source some 2-4-D as it sounds like something that would work well at killing only the weeds.

Have considered trying to get a cultivator to run through the fairways and planting grass seed. Not sure if that would be effective though.

 

[greg_b_4]

depending on how big the area I'd suggest using tarps, stake them down all winter and early spring, that should kill just about everything under

 

[Consult20]

Controlled burn sounds interesting. I can mention it to the the parks dept and see what they think, doubt they would go for it though given the potential to get out of hand.

I will also try to source some 2-4-D as it sounds like something that would work well at killing only the weeds.

Have considered trying to get a cultivator to run through the fairways and planting grass seed. Not sure if that would be effective though.

If you do decide to spray, you may want to rent a tow-behind sprayer if someone has a lawn tractor you can use. I used 2-4-D several years ago with good results, it does the job killing the nasty weeds and leaving the various grasses intact.

 

[RobA]

Looking at the title, I thought this thread was going in a different direction.

You and me both.

 

[joecoin]

This summer in Ohio the weeds were out of control. I assume you had the same in PA. The most effective/least harmful method is to mow, mow , mow. Cut them before they get 6 inches high. Over and over. Within a few years, grass will choke out the noxious weeds, if grass will grow where the weeds are now.

 

[DavidSauls]

Just to echo what everyone else has said.

If you're willing to spray, 2,4-D will kill weeds and brush better than roundup, and leave grass undamaged. 2 or 3 sprayings a year, for a year or two, will really knock it back, and let the grass take over (if there is grass).

Otherwise, mowing is the answer, but it takes many more mowings to starve out the weeds.

 

[riltim]

Looks like 2-4-D is my answer. I have no issue spraying several times a year.

 

[DavidSauls]

Looks like 2-4-D is my answer. I have no issue spraying several times a year.

The "willingness" question comes to environmental concerns.

Myself, I co-own a private course with a ton of maintenance, and my regret is that I don't spray enough. In the long run its a huge labor-saver, and we only have a limited amount of labor in us to begin with. Every year I pledge to spray more often.....and don't get around to it.

We use roundup and 2,4-D....roundup where plants in the grass family are a problem.

Among other things, we've killed off huge briar patches with 2,4-D. One application, and a follow-up 3 or 4 months later, will usually do it.

 

[Dr.Smooth]

As an organic grower, I have determined that learning to live with weeds is a healthy mindset.

Determining what is a weed and what isn't can help alleviate some of the destructive conventional logic that we need to have everything in a fictitious mono culture

By the way stinging nettle is native and good for the ecosystem. And might add to the element of if you land in the rough it won't be good for you or your score.

 

[Consult20]

Looks like 2-4-D is my answer. I have no issue spraying several times a year.

Exactly what David said regarding environmental concerns, it's nasty stuff so the idea is to use the least amount you can to get the job done. Just follow the directions and warnings on the label, and don't spray the stoners! :|

 

[gradus]

I know I can spray the hell out of it with high concentrate roundup but I'd like that to be my last resort.

If you go with the "last resort," find something like Glystar Plus. It's a fraction of the cost of Roundup. Can get a 2.5 gallon jug for about $55.

I use it at our course, but it's in the rough, some types of thorns, poison ivy and edges of the fairway. Not sure that it would be very good for covering large portions of the fairway.

 

[Tim_the_Enchanter]

If you do decide to go the chemical route, make sure you follow the directions on the bottle as far as dosage is concerned. Even though 2,4-D is relatively "nice" compared to things like Roundup, it's still a nasty herbicide and a "more is better" approach is not the responsible way to go.

Like others have mentioned, herbicide should always be the last resort. A more holistic approach would be to try to plant other plants/turf there that will outcompete the weeds. That can be tough though, especially in a place where weeds are firmly established and that doesn't get regular attention from a gardener/maintenance crew.

This is a good website for different info on weeds and how to deal with them, it's mostly applicable to plants here in the PNW, but lots of weeds are prevalent throughout the country. http://hortsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu/Search/MainMenuWithFactSheet.aspx?CategoryId=6

 

[Aim For The Chains]

Controlled burn sounds interesting. I can mention it to the the parks dept and see what they think, doubt they would go for it though given the potential to get out of hand.

I will also try to source some 2-4-D as it sounds like something that would work well at killing only the weeds.

Have considered trying to get a cultivator to run through the fairways and planting grass seed. Not sure if that would be effective though.

Most grass needs good soil. Burning helps put nutrients back into the ground and really not as crazy as it sounds. Mulching is great too but a lot of labor.

Vinegar is cheap as hell and damage foliage to thin out areas vs totally wipe out like a roundup product can.