Should have mentioned, stick with DX or KC pro on the rocs, they season nicely and fly better than any of the premium versions out there.
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Noobie Question Thread (Dumb Questions answered here)
- Thread starter Frank Delicious
- Start date
Co-sign this and also advise you to get Rocs with a gradual dome. Not pancake flat and not really domey where you can push in the flight plate aka pop top. Stay away from the waxy feeling DX plastic (feels similar to R-Pro) for durability purposes.
dukesilver
Par Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2013
- Messages
- 142
Is there supposed to be a noticeable flight or plastic difference between a teebird that has the number 12x on it versus "twelve time" spelt out? I've seen people looking for a specific version, but am curious as to why.
with many discs/molds you can tell when it was run from the company by the different stamps-- in the case of the TeeBird there are tons of slightly different molds with different flights, grip, and other small factors from plus rims to domey vs flat etc.
People that throw innova can be very crazy about WHAT exact innova mold they are trying to buy or replace as innova is historic for changing up molds. I personally cannot tell you why someone would want a spelled out 12x vs a numerical one but they likely are a little crazy and just need to throw some more teebirds. People like KC Pro CAL tooled, 11x blah blah, CE TeeBirds, Brinters (OS TB), CFR runs which are domey and flat or opaque/pearly..
basically it boils down to a very small specific preference to a certain mold and if it was changed or unique etc and the stamp or tooling is how those differing flight characteristics can be identified.
People that throw innova can be very crazy about WHAT exact innova mold they are trying to buy or replace as innova is historic for changing up molds. I personally cannot tell you why someone would want a spelled out 12x vs a numerical one but they likely are a little crazy and just need to throw some more teebirds. People like KC Pro CAL tooled, 11x blah blah, CE TeeBirds, Brinters (OS TB), CFR runs which are domey and flat or opaque/pearly..
basically it boils down to a very small specific preference to a certain mold and if it was changed or unique etc and the stamp or tooling is how those differing flight characteristics can be identified.
Chanbearguy
Par Member
^^the "twelve" times are just more gummy and grip better (that one is MHO) where the "12x" can be abit stiffer I have both because its hard to find the"twelve" so if you have some pm me lol
dukesilver
Par Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2013
- Messages
- 142
I have a twelve spelled out, but it's one of my favorite discs (out of the measly 10 that I have). 
MarkDSM
Double Eagle Member
Yo.. Picked up a Opto Pure, bright yellow 176.. I want 4 more now ... where do I find NOW ? ..difficulty, my try out baby has a lot of excess flash which gives me confidence beach tossing stable
Chanbearguy
Par Member
fritothedog
* Ace Member *
Um, I see one question in this post. The answer to that question would presumably be where you got the first one. Or at a disc golf store. Or click one of the two banner ads on any given page on this website and have them shipped to you. I don't know if this helped but good luck.
^awesome.
Maybe he picked it up from the ground? And wants to know other grassy knolls that contain opto pures
knettles
Double Eagle Member
I have to leave this thread before my grammar nazi brain explodes.
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Messages
- 2,244
I hear a lot of talk about flashing on the forums. What is flashing and how does it effect the disc?
Curtis_Valk
Eagle Member
Flashing is a thin line of plastic left over from the molding process (where the mold halves meet I believe). Do you remember having to trim the flashing off plastic model pieces when you were young?
From my experience and what I've read here, the flashing will make the disc more overstable. It doesn't take long to wear off being thin, so discs can change rapidly when fairly new then settle down.
Curtis
From my experience and what I've read here, the flashing will make the disc more overstable. It doesn't take long to wear off being thin, so discs can change rapidly when fairly new then settle down.
Curtis
flashing is how excess plastic which forms on a mold during the injection molding process is described/measured. If you feel the bottom of the rim on a new disc you will feel a sharp additional raised part of the disc which is not uniform to the mold but happens due to the molding process and is sometimes trimmed or executed better than others. Discs also generally have small witness marks. A lot of additional flashing will be uncomfortable and make a disc act more overstable than it should.
Flash, also known as flashing, is excess material attached to a molded, forged, or cast product, which must usually be removed. This is typically caused by leakage of the material between the two surfaces of a mold (beginning along the parting line[1]) or between the base material and the mold (in the case of overmolding). Molding flash is seen when the optimized parameter on cull height is not calibrated[citation needed]. Proper design of mold parting surfaces can reduce or eliminate flash.
Molding flash can be caused from old or worn mold cavities that no longer fit tightly together. Other times, the complexity of the part requires so many mating pieces with such precise geometries that it is almost impossible to create a perfect fit on every impression. Most often, the type of material being molded, and its attendant viscosity in its liquid form, is the primary factor that leads to the creation of the unwanted mold flashThe process of removing flash, known as deflashing, is commonly performed via cutting, breaking, grinding, or tumbling. Some foundries use robot autogrinders to remove this unwanted material.
Witness mark--
In plastic injection, a faint mark called witness mark (or witness line) will occur along the parting line.[1] This is unavoidable and is usually accepted despite minor aesthetics issue. However, some part surfaces (e.g. when used for sealing[4]) cannot tolerate witness mark, and thus either the mark must be removed post-molding or the mold redesigned.
Flash, also known as flashing, is excess material attached to a molded, forged, or cast product, which must usually be removed. This is typically caused by leakage of the material between the two surfaces of a mold (beginning along the parting line[1]) or between the base material and the mold (in the case of overmolding). Molding flash is seen when the optimized parameter on cull height is not calibrated[citation needed]. Proper design of mold parting surfaces can reduce or eliminate flash.
Molding flash can be caused from old or worn mold cavities that no longer fit tightly together. Other times, the complexity of the part requires so many mating pieces with such precise geometries that it is almost impossible to create a perfect fit on every impression. Most often, the type of material being molded, and its attendant viscosity in its liquid form, is the primary factor that leads to the creation of the unwanted mold flashThe process of removing flash, known as deflashing, is commonly performed via cutting, breaking, grinding, or tumbling. Some foundries use robot autogrinders to remove this unwanted material.
Witness mark--
In plastic injection, a faint mark called witness mark (or witness line) will occur along the parting line.[1] This is unavoidable and is usually accepted despite minor aesthetics issue. However, some part surfaces (e.g. when used for sealing[4]) cannot tolerate witness mark, and thus either the mark must be removed post-molding or the mold redesigned.
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Messages
- 2,244
Thanks for the knowledge!
What are closed hips vs open hips? Are there drills or other ways to help open the hips?
that's kind of deep in regards to over all technique but basically getting your hips/core into the throw. Think of it for now like you are staying faced away from the target as long as possible in the reachback and not opening up your body too early trying to generate power-- letting your arm be a lever controlled by the core and hips/shoulders are the main focus points. You can see an closed stance nearly in any pro who is throwing or form video and its part of keeping your overall mechanics in-line. If you rotate open early you often are off balanced, aiming all over, high to low/downward pull-thoughs, no acceleration often strong arm.
