Noobie Question Thread (Dumb Questions answered here)

[NuNinja]

Would a hyzer and anhyzer be the same for a LHFH as a RHBH or opposite?

Wing down is hyzer, wing up is anhyzer no matter which way you throw(RHBH/RHFH/LHBH/LHFH)

 

[Thrival Time]

If you run out of discs on a hole, what is the PDGA's ruling? I was at a tournament where some guy on a different card did not get all his discs past the minimum distance requirement on a hole, but the other guys on his card either A: misunderstood the PDGA rulebook, or B: PDGA didn't rule on it. After not finding anything, they just made the guy pick up his discs and add the one stroke penalties for each throw.

To satisfy curiousity, what is the actual ruling/expected outcome when this happens in a PDGA tournament?

 

[Crazy Runner Guy]

If you run out of discs on a hole, what is the PDGA's ruling? I was at a tournament where some guy on a different card did not get all his discs past the minimum distance requirement on a hole, but the other guys on his card either A: misunderstood the PDGA rulebook, or B: PDGA didn't rule on it. After not finding anything, they just made the guy pick up his discs and add the one stroke penalties for each throw.

To satisfy curiousity, what is the actual ruling/expected outcome when this happens in a PDGA tournament?

That is a really good question, and something I through about while watching vids of Hole 17 of the USDGC. What would happen if you came up short, or put it in the water, too many times and ran out of discs? My search of the rules didn't come up with anything. Also, we do have a forum for Rules Questions.

 

[Chanbearguy]

I just picked up a nuke as in Ti plastic but it says "the memorial championship" on it was just wondering if that meant anything as to flight characteristic I want to get a couple more but want to get the exact same thing

 

[plastic cannon]

Those are Nuke SS's. They are readily available so you should have no problem finding more.

 

[knettles]

If you run out of discs on a hole, what is the PDGA's ruling? I was at a tournament where some guy on a different card did not get all his discs past the minimum distance requirement on a hole, but the other guys on his card either A: misunderstood the PDGA rulebook, or B: PDGA didn't rule on it. After not finding anything, they just made the guy pick up his discs and add the one stroke penalties for each throw.

To satisfy curiousity, what is the actual ruling/expected outcome when this happens in a PDGA tournament?

First of all, I'm confused at what you mean by the "minimum distance requirement". And second, I may not be understanding this right, but how can someone run out of discs? I mean, isn't the only way for that to happen is for them to lose all their discs? I feel like there's something I'm missing.

 

[Chanbearguy]

I think he means like there is an "island" hole they have to make it to off the drive and someone threw every disc they had in the bag and still didnt make it...I'd personally call it a day but that's just me lol

 

[knettles]

I think he means like there is an "island" hole they have to make it to off the drive and someone threw every disc they had in the bag and still didnt make it...I'd personally call it a day but that's just me lol

Ohh, ok. My bad. That's why I like having a different drop zone for after missing 2 or 3 times in a row. Some island greens and mandos can be really tough to make.

 

[MarkDSM]

What plastic are DiscCraft SuperColors? The opaque white ones.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

Discraft has them listed separately from other blends and believe its an opaque Z like plastic but retailers also refer to the discs as ESP/Z supercolor.. good question! any DC workers/insiders here?

 

[Nemmers]

I'm primarily a RHFH thrower. I play Ultimate a lot and can huck a decent backhand in a game even though I have ZERO skill throwing forehand with a regular Frisbee, but for some reason can make a FH work for me in DG.

Recently acquired a Star Mako, which is purported to be the straightest flying disc on the market, and it is....when I get my form straight.

Question is: How does a primarily RHFH thrower get consistency with a BH toss? I'm either releasing it way too late (putting it in the bushes) or way too soon (putting it in the bushes). Don't matter which disc I throw....I'm putting that ish in the bushes.

I guess what I'm asking is, what technique worked best for you starting out throwing backhand with the x-step? Or without it? I just want consistency. Power is irrelevant at this point. Spin and consistency are my main concerns. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

if power is irrevelant then I say skip the x step and do a one step (basically last step of a full x step throw into your lie) or stand still which is harder but probably more consistent if you cant dial it in.
Work on throwing on a straight plane/line and this can be done even into you closet with clothes hanging just a few feet away to ensure release is timed right. doesn't matter the end of the flight as a disc will fly good if its released properly and that's evident in the first 3-5' of the flight for the most part unless throwing max D which you stated we aren't talking about.

Don't try to throw too hard but be smooth and really focus on acceleration going from stupid slow to fast with good weight transfer than is smooth no "herky jerky" as well as less reachback from a standstill and more shoulder turn/reach possible from a step throw but also less accurate. outside of 225' ish I generally use a step throw vs standstill.

I started throwing rhfh and now only use it when needed so it just takes practice and time to aquire a BH but really focusing too hard on your form DURING your throw also can hurt. Always keep in mind the technique needed but never focus too hard on one thing IMO during the beginning of learning backhand as it leads to a style which never ends up natural.

 

[Dan Ensor]

Question is: How does a primarily RHFH thrower get consistency with a BH toss? I'm either releasing it way too late (putting it in the bushes) or way too soon (putting it in the bushes). Don't matter which disc I throw....I'm putting that ish in the bushes.

Keep good width between your elbow and body. That's generally the problem with inconsistent release.

 

[BrotherDave]

Question is: How does a primarily RHFH thrower get consistency with a BH toss? I'm either releasing it way too late (putting it in the bushes) or way too soon (putting it in the bushes). Don't matter which disc I throw....I'm putting that ish in the bushes.

I guess what I'm asking is, what technique worked best for you starting out throwing backhand with the x-step? Or without it? I just want consistency. Power is irrelevant at this point. Spin and consistency are my main concerns. Any help is appreciated.

There's a plethora of info out there for you to sort through. The technique sticky is a good place to start.

For backhand (and forehand, overhand, whatever hand) everything revolves around the Hit. The Hit is basically where the energy created by your body is transferred to your disc and the disc more or less propels itself away from you because the energy given it is higher than your ability to hold onto the disc. Got it? :\

You have to feel the hit, then work backwards to create it and maximize it. The key is to remember that we're using leverage to throw these discs. The disc is a hammer. When you swing a hammer, you grip from the base of the handle and let the weight of the hammerhead and gravity assist you in pulling the head around with the most power. When you grab your disc, where you pinch is the base of the hammer and the opposite end of the disc is the head. The appropriately named Hammer pound drill teaches you how to throw your disc like a hammer, using leverage. Levering the crap out of your disc is basically the oversimplified definition of The Hit.

Here are some basic fundamentals to wrap your head around:

1. Throw with your body, not your arm. (Weight Transfer)
2. Have a linear pull (don't arc or round your throw)
3. Load your levers
4. Chop the elbow (accelerate exponentially)
5. Follow through! (accelerate exponentially!)


1. Get your body into the throw. You can do this without an x-step or even a step. The key here is weight transfer. You start with your weight ~80% on your back leg and 20% on your plant leg, then roll your weight forward so the plant leg is 80% and the back leg is 20% (numbers aren't specific). There is a magical moment where if you sync up your hit with this weight transfer the disc will really travel. Weight transfer is where it all starts in my opinion. On backhands, you'll need to turn away from the target, plant your pivot foot (right foot for RHBH) by touching down lightly upon the inside of the side of your foot (toes pointing roughly 90 degrees or more away from target) and feel your weight transfer from back to front leg as you roll your weight onto eventually your heel (see: Heel Pivot). Get your mechanics and timing correct and your plant foot will pivot by force naturally. You must pivot naturally, do not consciously spin on your foot like a ballerina. The pivot must be a reaction to the action of your throw. Safety tip: Keep your knee bent a little to reduce stress on your ligaments during the pivot.

2. Pull in a line. A lot of people arc or round their throws, or in other words pull in an arc. This makes it very difficult to feel or establish a hit as well lead to many early or late releases (likely the cause of your problem of keeping it out of the bushes). You want to bring the disc into your chest in a generally straight line because you're basically converting your arm into a whip and it's hard to snap a whip without a strong change in direction. When you're doing all this, it's advisable to try and also keep the disc in the same plane as your arm and elbow, to have all the moving parts moving in the same direction in time and keeping off axis torque out of your throw.

3. Load your levers. A disc golf throw like a lot of athletic throws is multi-component. Your components need to lead the others, like a train engine pulling cars along. After your weight is transferred, your hips go from closed to open. These hips lead your shoulders with the hips opening, forcing the shoulders to open from closed. Your shoulders then lead your elbow. Hips lead shoulders, shoulder leads elbow. This occurs naturally and as you get your timing down, you can gently assist this action for more power. The key for me figuring this out was stepping into my throw off my back leg to start the hips from closed to open. Watch the Driving with Dan Beto video and notice the little leg kick he does with his back leg, that's what I'm talking about.

4. Chop the elbow. This is the right pec drill that you will see pop up a lot and displayed in Dan Beto's vid. This is really tricky to explain which sucks because this is the meat and bones portion of the Hit. As you open your shoulders up, you'll feel the wrist close itself as the disc passes by your right pec. You have to time a little pause in there (known as stopping the elbow) then chop the elbow forward and pull hard the whole time, harder and harder acceleration. Timing this is crucial. You'll want to start pinching hard on the disc in response to the disc trying to pry itself away so as soon the disc starts feeling heavier you start gripping down. To do this, your muscles need to stay relaxed and fairly loose the whole time leading up this step. You can't feel The Hit with tense muscles. As the disc starts pulling away from you, you can attempt to assist the momentum of your wrist opening up for additional power (known as: Wrist extension). When the disc reaches the end of "the whip" (your arm) it will explode out of your grip and travel. That's the Hit. Once you get used to feeling it, then you build your timing and technique in order to increase the the Hit.

5. Follow Through. It's instinctive to slow your arm down to watch the disc's flight. Don't do it! Keep accelerating until well after the disc is gone to avoid subconsciously slowing down your arm and hurting your hit. Also do this to avoid slamming your elbow joint closed and straining your forearm resulting in tendinitis (See: Frolfer's elbow). Also do this to encourage that forced pivot to keep from torquing your knee and also to complete your weight transfer. Most importantly, do this because it makes you look cool as #*$& as you stroll off the tee like a boss.

The really simplified version:
Learn to feel the hit. Learn to transfer your weight forward. Learn to combine the two.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

the hit is the BOOM! nice post^ whooo ric flair style.

 

[Chanbearguy]

the hit is the BOOM! nice post^ whooo ric flair style.

The nature booyyy....but I agree what a post lol

 

[Aim For The Chains]

styling and profiling. that BroD'

 

[Timkid]

I am looking for a putter and a mid where 1 mold will cover all shots in different stages of wear. I have played for a few years now and went normal noob rought. Have 15 discs in 15 different molds. I think from reading here a roc will cover my mid spot, but will it cover overstable?

 

[mashnut]

Yup, a brand new rancho roc is plenty overstable for anything but a raging headwind, and when you're in that situation you're better off throwing a lower profile driver than an overstable mid anyway.

For putters, any of the large bead traditional putter molds will do that for you. The most popular are the BB aviar and the wizard (both come in a huge range of plastics). You can also go with a focus, challenger or another similar putter. The ridge and the ion have similar flights but don't break in like the others do, you'd have to wait a long time to have multiple stages of wear with those two.

 

[Timkid]

Thanks for fast response looks like i get to do some disc shopping.