[Millennium] Polaris Versions

[HPamer]

I used to have an old Polaris LS that i loved.
I ended up losing that disc and replacing it, But the new one just seems different. Is this due to the version of the disc?
The new one is stamped 1.19 and my old one had no version stamped on it at all.

 

[Omega SuperSloth]

millienium plastic(base plastic) dosnt seem to have changed much i guess it possible, my guess would be that your old one was a different weight or it had hit a tree or something that plastic dosnt hold up well against close tree hits .

 

[Dthunderchicken]

I now have three different runs. An unmarked, a 1/18 and two 1/19s. All of them are 150g. Allowing for beat in, (and for what little I've thrown the 19s. I just got them) I find them surprisingly consistant.

I threw my primary 1/18 tye dye (pretty disc too) into a lake last month.

 

[RustyP]

The Millennium base plastic (ie - Innova Pro plastic) has changed slightly over the years, but nothing drastic...with one exception. The 1.13 runs are made with a blend of CE plastic...and they're durable as hell! Also seemed a bit more stable than the other runs I've thrown.

I've got 2 for sale if anyone is interested...

 

[Omega SuperSloth]

^ if their so great why u selling them

 

[Three Putt]

There has only been one version of the Polaris LS. The first number on Millennium discs stand for the mold, the second number for the run. So a 1.19 Polaris LS means they are still using the original mold "1" and that disc is from the 19th run from that mold.

For a few runs Millennium dropped the numbering, which is why you have some with no numbers.

There are some discs like the Tachyon LF that went through several variations. I have 2.2, 3.1 and 4.1 Tachyon LF's. Since the first number is different, you knew the mold changed. It's actually a cool little feature that I wish all manufacturers used.

Since the Polaris still has "1" as the first number, you know the mold is the same. Any variation you notice is due to the same things that make any discs from the same mold vary from run to run.

 

[tbird888]

I wish Innova followed that method.

 

[RustyP]

^ if their so great why u selling them

I only sell quality products

Honestly though, I just prefer the Teebird for my fairway driver slot.

 

[sidewinding]

I used to have an old Polaris LS that i loved.
I ended up losing that disc and replacing it, But the new one just seems different. Is this due to the version of the disc?
The new one is stamped 1.19 and my old one had no version stamped on it at all.

Maybe your old disc was an Orion LS which is a totally different disc but for some reason shares the name LS.

They also make the JLS which is another disc that shares the LS for some reason. Does anyone know that the J in JLS stands for?

 

[Three Putt]

Does anyone know that the J in JLS stands for?

I have nothing to base this on, but I thought it stood for "John" as in Houck.

 

[dreadlock86]

JLS = just long straight
orion LS = orion long straight
polaris LS = polaris long straight

orion LF = orion long fade

aurora MS = mid straight
sentinel MF = mid fade

 

[dreadlock86]

i believe some of the stamps for the JLS actually say "just long straight" on them.

 

[Three Putt]

The first JLS stamp had just about every word that starts with "J" on it.

 

[Scoot_er]

There has only been one version of the Polaris LS. The first number on Millennium discs stand for the mold, the second number for the run. So a 1.19 Polaris LS means they are still using the original mold "1" and that disc is from the 19th run from that mold.

For a few runs Millennium dropped the numbering, which is why you have some with no numbers.

There are some discs like the Tachyon LF that went through several variations. I have 2.2, 3.1 and 4.1 Tachyon LF's. Since the first number is different, you knew the mold changed. It's actually a cool little feature that I wish all manufacturers used.

Since the Polaris still has "1" as the first number, you know the mold is the same. Any variation you notice is due to the same things that make any discs from the same mold vary from run to run.

What would a set of all 3 be worth? Or would it be better of staying for future "Tac Porn?"

I have a bunch of Mill from 94-95 worlds and bought a Black with silver/rainbow stamp 4.1 which I heard were the best and feel like a Viper to me.

Speaking of Viper I dug out a rainbow Star stamp Metalhead and a Tourny stamp which I found on ebay which is also a Metalhead.

That along with the X & 1st run wasp and RR/TP Comets make me ready for the season to start in 2 weeks. Found my stack of OM DX beasts I got as my 1st sponsorship back in 04' and may be willing to sell if anyone is interested....and my dad doesn't want them.

What does CE-JLS go for? LE Sentinels? 1st run Q-Ms?

 

[Three Putt]

I liked how the 4.1's had the warning on them. "Super Overstable."

None of the Mill stuff seems to have much value. The San Marino Q Sentinels and 1.7 EXP1's can both be picked up for less than $20.00. I've still got three or four LE Sentinels and I don't think I can sell them for the $10.00 I paid for them in the first place.

 

[Scoot_er]

I would pay $15 for them since the LE Sentinels were a little smoother and my 1st tourny ace at 13.

The 1.7s are for sure the most sought after Millennium discs and its too bad since they make some good stuff.

 

[Brodysseus]

/necro bump

How are the 1.29s flying? Would they pair well with Teebirds?

 

[TheBMeistor]

I have a 1.29 175g. It has a higher PLH than my older one, seems more stable for sure, just hard to tell by how much as my older one is beat in.

Has some fade to it, fights back in a descent headwind to land straight after drifting right quite a bit. Has a little more fade than I would like to pair it with a Teebird. That same headwind my fresh pro gazelle locked into straight and faded left.

I throw fairways 300' and at that distance it isn't a turnover driver, but isn't too great in a headwind either. I can get it to hold an anny but not from flat or hyzer.