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Any tips for thowing bh turnover shots with a driver?

AlwaysBogey

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Oct 2, 2018
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There's a 380ft dogleg right par 3 at my local course. My goal is to birdie it one day.
This distance is out of my flick range unless I get a super lucky shot, but then it's still a long range putt that I probably wont make.

Anytime I try to throw a bh turnover with a driver it always fades back.

Will releasing flat with an understable driver do the job?
Or maybe a little bit of anhyzer with a disc that's not too understable?
 
You'll probably get the farthest carry with something I would call a -1/1 stability on a high anhyzer, or something that is -2/1ish and thrown high but a little flatter. Nose down of course is crucial.

You want something that will be understable enough in the HSS so that it holds a turn for a long time without really needing to be forced over extremely, but with at least some fade at the end so that it is constantly panning back towards flat. This bit of fight will keep the disc aloft and let it carry way right, vs. a disc that is like a -3 HSS or more, which will want to keep turning on edge and seek the ground because of the extreme angle.

It's really hard to throw drivers on a long and controlled anny. Make sure you can do it with mids, then fairway drivers, then something like a Sidewinder, then drivers. Of course that's if you want to have max control rather than just be throwing drivers really hard and getting 1/5 of them to work.

Each of those stages has more shape/fade and nuance to the flight than the one before, and is another step more nose sensitive. Get a mid on an anny with a bit of nose up, it should at least go to the right and then push forward. Get a driver a bit too nose up, and it'll just sail up, stall, and noob hyzer left halfway into the flight...way more punishing.

If I had to suggest discs, it would be Comet for mid although obviously that's way long for a Comet for nearly anyone, Sidewinder/Roadrunner for 9ish, and something like a Sword for higher speed...it's glidey neutral but not too fast/nose angle sensitive or overstable. Of course the faster the disc and longer the shot, the more it really has to match your arm speed to be able to manipulate it, so different people have different go to's.
 
Agree with the above. Especially like the idea of the progression from mids to drivers. Something I've heard from good Roc throwers is how they think of a Roc as just like a driver, but with more control.

Something like a Leopard/Leopard3 or FD is what I would try as well. I've also been able to get that shot shape from a Shryke, but there's definitely more variance there.

Proper height and commitment to the shot/angles seems to be the key.

There are probably many examples, but one that came to mind right away was this Teebird shot: (at the 5:53 mark)

https://youtu.be/chbbQ91HLZ4?t=353
 
There's a 380ft dogleg right par 3 at my local course. My goal is to birdie it one day.
This distance is out of my flick range unless I get a super lucky shot, but then it's still a long range putt that I probably wont make.

Anytime I try to throw a bh turnover with a driver it always fades back.

Will releasing flat with an understable driver do the job?
Or maybe a little bit of anhyzer with a disc that's not too understable?
I throw a super understable driver on a hyzerline when attempting that type of shot. Make sure you are letting the disc do the work and not trying to force the anhyzer line. I really like a monarch for that type shot.
 
Agree with the above. Especially like the idea of the progression from mids to drivers. Something I've heard from good Roc throwers is how they think of a Roc as just like a driver, but with more control.

Something like a Leopard/Leopard3 or FD is what I would try as well. I've also been able to get that shot shape from a Shryke, but there's definitely more variance there.

Proper height and commitment to the shot/angles seems to be the key.

There are probably many examples, but one that came to mind right away was this Teebird shot: (at the 5:53 mark)

https://youtu.be/chbbQ91HLZ4?t=353

Yes, all of this is good info. Keep in mind if you are throwing an anny with a Roc/Comet type of mid...it's probably going to work out/not stall nearly every time. You're better off with a shot that is 50' short but exactly on line, than a driver that faded out 80'+ left of intention as well as is a bit short because it stalled out...

The Leo/FD route is really controllable for anny shots, so is the Teebird but it's a different line/commitment to me. The -1/1 FD style anny I will put up on the angle I want the flight to be at, and trust the disc to keep holding or even turn into that angle slightly. It will hold it very well and the slight ending stability will prevent it from cut rolling. The Teebird is just as easy, as long as it isn't an overstable Teebird, but it needs an overcommitment. I choose the height and line I want, but put it on slightly more angle than intended and know that the disc will continually fight just slightly rather than turn a bit more. Sometimes or for some people this is slightly easier, as you can error on the side of slightly too much anny angle and know the disc will hold it and pan a bit. You can see that's exactly what Philo does in that clip.
 
I've got a similar situation at a local course, but the dogleg is reverse and uphill (I'm LHBH btw). For this shot I'll bust out my max weight Avenger SS. I throw high on an anny and it'll track around the corner, and by the time it wants to fade, it's already near the ground. This allows it to basically just sit down without fading too much. Mostly successful, unless I don't hit the six foot gap at the corner or throw a little too high and hit those trees gaurding said gap.
 
For the type of shot you mentioned I use a Stingray. For a mid it gets good distance.
 
I throw a super understable driver on a hyzerline when attempting that type of shot. Make sure you are letting the disc do the work and not trying to force the anhyzer line. I really like a monarch for that type shot.

This but Mamba.
 
Yeah. Grab an understable driver and throw it flat and fairly hard. The disc will go right on its own. Something like a Leopard or Heat will go right and stay right. You don't want something with a lot of late fade. A Roadrunner or Sidewinder would probably work too.
 

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