Streets
* Ace Member *
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2012
- Messages
- 10,584
Any specific plastics I should get for the Leopard?
Dx and Pro will treat you the best and I would stick to some lighter weights like 168-171g for drivers. Less work to get them going.
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Any specific plastics I should get for the Leopard?
Dx and Pro will treat you the best and I would stick to some lighter weights like 168-171g for drivers. Less work to get them going.
I am really glad I am getting a lot of the same disc recommendations to use. Looks like I'll be getting a Leopard and a Roc, and possibly an Aviar as well. Right now the Rhyno is working well, but I don't have many other things I've used before, so not sure. I'll have to test it out.
Any specific plastics I should get for the Leopard?
I would suggest adding two discs.
The first would be a slower, glidey midrange. The Comet and Roc are both great, but I would probably recommend the Roc since it'll give you some extra beef to complement the Panther without being a meathook like the Gator. As a newer player with slower armspeed and less snap, you'll appreciate the extra distance the Roc's glide will give you. I know I did as I learned a BH. It's also at its best in DX plastic so it won't be a big loss if you lose it (as all new players tend to do). As you hit trees it'll also start to lose some of its fade and start to be one of your favorite discs. Resist the urge to try it in a premium plastic.
The second would be a slower understable driver. The Pro Leopard, DX Cheetah, or Neutron Switch are all great options. The Patriot is another great mold, but it's a little too fast. Streets is right about MVP discs needing a lot of spin to fly right, but the Switch is understable and slow enough that it's a little more forgiving than a lot of their drivers. It does have a pretty extreme fade when it slows that pushes it to the bottom of the list in my opinion. I would give the nod to the Leopard here. In Pro plastic, it'll be durable enough to handle all the trees you'll inevitably hit, but it has a ton of glide which will help you get some extra distance while you "grow" into it.
With the distance that you've listed, I would use the Leopard sparingly. I have only included a driver as an option because it helps give you feedback on something a lot of midranges don't, nose angle. With a midrange, you can throw with nose up (the leading edge of the disc being higher than the trailing edge, exposing the underside to wind instead of letting the wing design do what it's supposed to do) and still get decent distance. When you throw a driver the same way, it'll make the disc act more overstable than it should, causing it to fade much earlier than it should.
Well I just got back from discing, and my estimation was wrong. I was throwing a very consistent 250 feet. Does that change anything you guys have said?
Well I just got back from discing, and my estimation was wrong. I was throwing a very consistent 250 feet. Does that change anything you guys have said?
Not incredibly. What are you getting 250 with? Driver?
Yeah. Beast and Valkyrie. I know, not very far, but my form is terrible, as I just found out. Should I wait on new discs until I fix my form?
Well I just got back from discing, and my estimation was wrong. I was throwing a very consistent 250 feet. Does that change anything you guys have said?
If you get a new disc, I would get a slower speed 6 driver (Cheetah, Cyclone, Gazelle, Leopard) and start working on good form with those and also start working on throwing your mids and putter.
What plastic are your Beast and Valk btw?