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[Millennium] OLF Mega Thread


Big Country
Bronze level trusted reviewer
Jun 22, 2012
Disc Golf Mecca: Colorado
Hey all....

I've spent the last 45 minutes or so waiting through the search function trying to get the full scoop on the Millennium OLF and at the risk of starting an unnecessary thread, I thought I'd start one where people can ask all sorts of questions and post all their info they have since it seems to be a relatively popular disc on these here forums.

Okay, so some of you know how heated I get about the whole "discing down" business, but even I have to admit the idea works in certain situations, including training and, like me, when your tired old arm and core can't get the job done anymore.

So here's my problem....lately I've been dealing with a whole mess of aches and pains and am noticing more and more than my Destroyers, even my well-loved ones, have more fade than they used to and quite a bit less turn...which obviously isn't the discs fault, it's mine. I have a stash of Wraiths that I though about switching too, but me and Wraiths never clicked as much as I would like. So I did some digging and thought I should still pretty easily get an OLF up to it's proper speed to get the flight that I want...I consulted the InBounds flight chart:


And since I can't get my Destros out to 450 (never could but I did use to hit the occasional 400 foot distance line) but I'm pretty sure with my form and arm/core speed I could likely get an OLF out past 350 on a golf line. In theory of course.

So how many of you out there throw OLFs? What plastic do you prefer them in, and why? I'm a fan of Star and Champion plastic, so I don't care whether it's a QOLF or a SOLF...whichever flies better (for my money, Star and Champ have more or less the same durability anyway). Are there any significant flight differences between them?

Lastly, at the risk of sounding like a n00b....just how the heck do you guys pronounce it? Do you say all the letters or do you say it phoentically...like "soulf" "quolf" etc. Thanks for the help y'all!
there is a guy i play league with, carries a whole bag o discs. yet he throws the QMS for mid shots and the OLF is his go to on everything else. if he cant afford it to turn he uses an avenger. he is a 300 thrower and gets his OLF to turn no problem. i think he has baseline though. it was funny when he played as cali during dubs. more than once he said,' damn it, i wish i had another OLF'
I pronounce it QWULF.

There are different versions of OLF's. 1.1 which is the older, less overstable run, and 1.2's which are more oversrable. I do not have experience with 1.3's.

Typically a fresh 1.2 OLF is Sirius or Quantum will not show much, if any turn. Once they season they gradually develop more turn. New I could generally crank them flat for 400' and at most they'd track right a bit before fading, used I threw on hyzer flip lines when going for D and got them in the 420-440 range on a golf line, which wasn't much shorter than I was throwing Quasars and Destroyers consistently.

They are easier to get up to speed than a faster disc, easy to grip, and still go pretty damn far.

For me I find my P Volts compare to fresh 1.2 QOLFS and N Volts like my 2.5 year old 1.1 QOLF or a seasoned 1.2 SOLF.

I found QOLFs ran a bit more consistent than SOLFS. I bought two SOLFS that threw more understable than I expected, but never had that issue with QOLFS.

Lastly there is an extra overstable run of QOLF x-outs that have a SOLF stamp, and are in milky white plastic with an unusually high PLH. Only ever saw them at play it again sports. I still have a few of these, they fly like a seasoned Pred, great for the wind but bad for D without flexing on an anny release.

I threw OLFs for years so if there is anything else you want to know just ask. And if its any help I have some old fieldwork videos and course rounds where I throw a bunch of different OLF's on my youtube.
SOLF and QOLF can be pretty overstable to begin with, especially the 1.2s and 1.3s. MOLFs have been in my experience much easier to turn, but they still have a pretty good fade at the end. Generally I've noticed that the domier OLFs tend to be more overstable, and flatter ones less so. MOLFs tend to mold the flattest, although I've also seem some pretty flat QOLFs, and they were noticeably less stable than my domier ones. Some 1.3s are plus-rimmed and have a mega poppy top dome. I mostly like 1.2 SOLFs and QOLFs with moderate dome, and throw them up to 370-380' or so.
Might as well get in on the first page with this.

Sof/qof on the bottom = first run regardless of the stamp

Mold changed after the first run

There are multiple runs labeled 1.2

The disc was released in 2006 so it has never been made in CE plastic.
Has anyone transitioned UP from OLFs to Destroyers or Wraiths? These OLFs have really peaked my interest for sure...I think they might be able to get me back to that good 350-400 foot golf distance.
I'm not sure how you would get an OLF to 350 if the Volt isn't already flying that far for you. Maybe a MOLF would go a tad farther than a Volt for you?
SOLF is my main driver. I like the 1.1 and 1.2 runs.

Paired with my JLS for the anny lines I don't need much else.
Love OLF's. I have a beat 1.1 SOLF that has the most beautiful S-turn flight on flat release. It's my distance disc for sure. I have a newish 1.2 SOLF that is still pretty stable. Use it for headwinds and when I need to stable up. Best thing about SOLF's is that even my beat in 1.1 that has a lot of high speed turn, has a pretty healthy fade. They seem to lose high speed stability and retain the low speed stability. Awesome disc. Any info on SOLF to QOLF differences? I really like the way SOLF's beat in. Is it worth getting a QOLF?
QOLFs beat in slower and more predictably. I have a 1.1 QOLF I threw for 2.5 years and it's amazing how long it has held that sweet spot. I'm gonna bring it back out sometime soon.
I bag: a MOLF (run: ?? very flat) starts good'n'stable, beats slowly for me. Has some turn now but I still use it in weaker headwinds, just with hyzer. In calm conditions I've gotten my longest golf lines (in the woods even) with this disc. Then I have a 1.1 "SOF" marked SOLF (d.e.a.d. flat) for holding the release angle 80% of the flight then fading. 1.2 pearly QOLF (domed) for overstable/most headwinds. After that I got to a true Firebird.

I have one "medium" dome (still pretty domey) 1.3 SOLF that flies nice overstable lines, but most of the 1.3 SOLFs are super tall/domey, very overstable in calm conditions and have too much drag to be useful in the wind. Buy 'em and pitch 'em so maybe we can get some nicer 1.4s! :D
I bought one (1.2 SOLF) too much overlap with my Opto saint, (greatest disc in my bag)
So I gave it to my wife for a headwind/forehand driver
I'm not sure how you would get an OLF to 350 if the Volt isn't already flying that far for you. Maybe a MOLF would go a tad farther than a Volt for you?

I don't use Volts for distance lines. I use it as a fairway driver when I need more length than a Teebird or a Patriot. My Volts are in Neutron, well-loved, so I use them for shot-shaping as well. If I was in a field I could probably get a Volt around 320-350....it's just not what I use it for.

And aren't OLF rims a little wider than Volts? I always thought they were around speed 10 or 11...Volt seems more like a 9 or so.

I digress....wasn't really looking for form critiques or any of that. My mechanics are sound, I'm just getting old and beat up and am thinking about dropping Destroyers. I just want something with a similar flight pattern that I can actually get up to it's speed potential, which I am struggling with on my Destroyers at the moment.
I should also point I am very true with my distances. I'm not an "internet distance" kind of guy. I take most posters distances on here with a grain of salt....except MikeC of course :)
And aren't OLF rims a little wider than Volts? I always thought they were around speed 10 or 11...Volt seems more like a 9 or so.

The rim on an OLF is a Firebird rim, so it's speed 9 that people call a speed 10 like the PD. To me, it's rim width that matters, and the OLF having a Firebird rim, it's 1.9cm. Compare that to a Beast that's 2.0cm, which I'm more inclined to call speed 10.

I carry a seasoned 1.1 QOLF, a newer 1.1 SOLF (trying to work it in), and a very reliable 1.2 QOLF for headwinds and shots where I need more fade.

In an effort to focus on technique a bit more, I've started throwing only Rivers, Teebirds, and OLFs for drivers. The 1.1 QOLF is my distance disc, and I think I get about the same distance you get Andy (I throw TBs 350, sometimes 375 max, as a baseline). I can get OLFs just out to 400, and out to 375' more easily. They're easy money for tight 350' shots that need to finish left too.

For max d, I throw them flat and they'll turn and fade. For a tighter, lower shot, I'll hyzer flip the beat 1.1 or just throw the newer 1.1 or the 1.2 flat for a nice laser.

I love these discs and highly recommend them, but there might be some overlap with your Volt. OLFs are definitely more in the "control driver" category.

And I either say Orion, or sometimes I'll say "oh ell eff." Pretty much nobody around here throws them, so they have no idea what I'm talking about anyway. Orion is easiest and works best.
OLF's and Volts don't do much that the other mold doesn't to be honest. You probably won't get extra D out of them...at least I noticed they usually go the same for me, with Volts being a touch longer on average (10' or so).

P Volts and 1.2 QOLFs are quite similar, with the P Volt having slightly beefier hss and less lss. 1.1 QOLFs are closer to Neutron Volts. Of course wear plays a huge role, especially with SOLFs and MOLFs. On average an s or m OLF should start in between P and V Volts stability wise, and break in to be a great versatile line shaper like a broken in N Volt. M's got flippy a little quick for my tastes.

Volts and OLFs are both speed 9's. None of them in any configuration are speed 10's.
Thanks, Alcuin! Great post...really helped a lot.

My Volts have a decent amount of turn with some good fade...I'm looking more for a straight to fade disc. Any difference between the SOLF and the QOLF stability-wise?
P Volt or 1.2 QOLF would be your best bet then. Most 1.2 SOLFs start straight to fade but I've had some start with -5 to -1 hss, but no 1.2 QOLF has had any significant high speed turn for me when new.